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From female warriors in the rainforest to infectious disease specialists: COVID-19 in the Amazon

Amazonas, the biggest state in Brazil, owes its name to female warriors who according to an ancient legend rode horses in the dark lost forest. The first case of COVID-19 in Manaus, the Amazonas’ capital city of 2·5 million inhabitants, was reported on March 13, 2020. Within weeks, chaos set in earlier and was unlike other cities in Brazil. The city soon received media attention from all over the world when an aerial view of a local cemetery with trenches being dug by an excavator became popular. The image was more shocking than those of Milan or Quito. Politicians in charge said it was a lie, that the number of deaths were being swaddled by left-wing interests, but I, living near the cemetery, noticed the movement even before it was reported. Facing empty streets daily on my way to patients’ houses, I used to come across funeral cars. It was like a video game with me going towards life and others going towards death.I worked to exhaustion treating people in their homes, the true trenches where the battle took place. It felt as if I was in Dottore della Peste, but with an N95 mask as opposed to a long black dress and plague doctor’s mask from the Middle Ages. I was introduced to the intimacy of the families and their frailties, and understood each woman burdened with endless household jobs including the most demanding, that of being a mother, with her children absent from schools and increasingly sick, not necessarily from COVID-19, but mentally.