BY CHRISTIAN ALLAIRE
Growing up in Southeast Alaska, Tlingit (Eagle/Kaagwaantaan) artist Jennifer Younger was exposed to Northwest Coast formline art—which often depicts objects and animals and makes use of ovoid, U-, or S-shapes—early on. It’s unique to the region, and it didn’t take long for the jewelry designer to pick up the distinctive design. “About 11 years ago, I was given the opportunity to apprentice with [artist] Nicholas Galanin (Ya Tseen). He helped me get set up with the basics of design and tools,” Younger tells Vogue. “Then I spent several years apprenticing with his father, Dave, who taught me how to make many tools, to respect the proper art form of Tlingit formline design, and to respect what came before me.”
Younger—who is now based in Sitka, Alaska, though her family is from the village of Yakutat—soon began to develop her own style of engravings. Historically, her Tlingit people have carved formline imagery onto wooden totem poles, but have also made use of materials such as horn, copper, and silver. She was drawn to working with metals in a more wearable jewelry context. “I really like to create pieces that I think can be worn by anyone, and that, in some way, makes the wearer feel strong and empowered,” says Younger. “At least, that’s what I try to channel as I am creating.” Today, her line produces bold, shapely statement pieces that combine traditional techniques with a modern, avant-garde edge.
The artist’s most recent collection—showcased at the Yaamava Fashion Daze fashion show in Southern California in April, and photographed by Jasper Soloff—took influence from the beautiful natural landscapes she grew up around in Alaska. “I drew inspiration from ovoids, the base design shape of Tlingit formline design,” says Younger. “Looking back takes me forward: I look back at traditional design, and try to envision new variations that will appeal to a younger generation. It’s all about carrying the art form on.” The collection includes elegant dangly earrings and chunkier statement necklaces, all fashioned out of her signature silvers and coppers. “One of my favorites is the large copper chest piece,” says Younger. “It’s shaped copper over the collarbone with formline design shapes hanging down the front, engraved with wild roses. I like the juxtaposition of the bold piece and shapes with the soft floral.”
Of course, for Younger, the use of silver and copper holds a deeper meaning beyond just how it looks. For the artist, using these materials is a way to carry on her lineage—utilizing the same materials her ancestors have for centuries—and gives wearers a special set of qualities as well. “As I learned more about the copper and its deeper history to my community, I leaned in on that,” says Younger. “The copper represents stature, strength, supernatural power, and protection.” She also sees a sense of power in using these traditional materials in a modern context—especially as there was a time when her elders were prevented from doing so by colonizers. “I want to honor my grandmother, who was not allowed to practice her culture,” says Younger.
Younger is one of many other new contemporary artists bringing traditional craft into the present. The artist says she’s inspired by seeing this movement occur across the Indigenous arts community. “In over the 10 years that I’ve been engraving and doing metal arts, I’ve seen so much more exposure of authentic Indigenous art,” says Younger. “I love to see our community getting recognition, and I hope it continues to empower the next generations.” In the mean time, Younger will be busy creating even more handmade works to adorn yourself with. “I’m continuing to dream up new statement pieces for shows in the fall, while I do custom orders,” says Younger. “My happy place is my workshop. This August, you can also find me at the Sovereign Santa Fe market. Come see me there!”
