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This Ukrainian City Was Once Home to a Vibrant Jewish Community. Now Its Grand Synagogue Is a Sports Hall

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Amos Oz’s mother was one of thousands of Jews who fled the then-Polish city of Rivne in the 1930s and ’40s. A visit today finds a city erasing its storied Jewish pastShare in Facebook

The train rattles westward from Kiev, past dense forests and spindly glades of trees dressed with mistletoe to Rivne – a city that challenges assumptions about Jewish history and memory.

While many other places in this part of the world can feel a little down-at-heel, this Ukrainian city four hours west of the capital has a Wild West vibe.

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